So, not that the accessories are off, we can work on the heads.  Start by sliding the large wire down the valve cover on each side of the engine.  Go ahead and take off the large wire also.  Now that the rocker arms are exposed, take a socket set and remove the two nuts (and washers) holding those on and put all of this into a bag labeled “right (or left) head”.  Pull the pushrods out of the tubes and make sure you keep them in the same order, so you can put  them into the proper cylinder   There are four pushrods per side, eight in all.

Now find hte eight nuts that hold on the cylinder head to the cylinders   Once loose, remove  the head and put those nuts into the proper bag.

Oil Pump and Screen

Now we can get at the oil pump.  This is located front and center on the engine and is covered by a thick plate.  Under the plate there are gaskets and gears.  Take the nuts off the plate, exposing the inside.  The gasket usually tears, so have another handy.  Take out the gears and then finally the pump itself.   This is pretty straightforward.  Put this all into a bag labeled “oil pump”.

Now looking under the engine, take off the drain plug plate.  There are six nuts holding this on, so remove those and take out that, the gasket, the oil screen, and the other gasket.  If you have holes in your screen, replace it.  Put this all into a bag labeled “oil screen”.

Splitting the Case

There are many nuts and bolts that hold the case halves together.  Still on the engine stand, locate all of these fasteners, including the ones around the oil pump and right in the middle-side of the case. Once located, remove all the hardware and put it into a bag labeled “case”.  Double then triple check to make sure you have them all, else you will damage the case.

Now take a soft blow mallet and lightly tap on the seams of the case.  Hammering it too hard will also damage the cae.  If it will not come apart in a few minutes, check again for unremoved nuts and bolts.  The case will work itself apart, really.  Once completed, flip the engine to the side on the stand and remove one half of the case.  Once completed, remove the crank and cam shafts.

Your on your way!

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In this segment, we are going to remove the sheet metal that keeps the bug cool.  One misnomer on this sheet metal is that is does not radiate heat, it ducts it.  The tin that came with the bug is more than suitable to do this, where if it were chrome trim, the engine would be prone to overheating.  You can feel the air push out the back of a properly running engine.  Each piece is critical to the cooling of the engine, so keep these handy.  These are all fastened by tin screws.  I am not going to run down the entire list of what needs to happen here, it should be fairly self explanatory.  Keep all of your parts in a bag labeled ”Sheet Metal”.

Generator Pedestal

Take off the four nuts that hold the generator stand onto the engine.  Remove it from the engine and the metal gasket from the hole.  That was easy…

Oil Cooler

The oil cooler is the last accessory we will remove here.  There are three 10mm nuts that hold that onto the engine.  Two of them are under the flange between the top and cylinders.  The other one is right on to.  Go ahead and remove the whole assembly.  There are also two gaskets between the cooler and the engine, remove these also and put this all into a bag labeled “oil cooler”.

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To remove the fuel pump, located next to the distributor  removeand plug the two lines that come from the fuel pump.  One goes directly to the gas tank, so have a golf-tee handy to plug that one up.  There are the two nuts that hold that down (13mm) and pull the pump straight off.   Put all of this into a  bag labeled “Fuel Pump”.

There should be a gasket, a rod, and a plastic rod-holder, and another gasket under all of that.  Take the rod out carefully and make sure to keep it clean and bend-free.

If your lucky, the plastic piece will just come out, if not, tap lightly with hammer until freed.  Note, this could break the plastic, which you should replace anyway.

Also not the difference between the two gaskets and keep this in mind for re-installation.  Put all of this into your “Fuel Pump” bag.

Exhaust

This is a three piece exhaust system with a muffler unit and two heat exchangers on either side of the engine.  Before starting, remove the two large paper hoses that attached to the fan housing. Remove the muffler from the heat exchangers by removing the “rings” that attach these together.  Each ring will have a nut and bolt on each side, gaskets, and seats over a flange in the exhaust.   There are four of these, and pending the age of your engine, could be very rusty.  I recommend buying new ones.  There is also a wide band clamp that needs to be removed from the heat exchanger, shown below.  Also, remove the remaining four nuts that hold the muffler onto the head.

Moving on, grab the pea shooters (at the end of the exhaust) and pull the muffler off.  You will now direct your attention to the heat exchangers.  Roll the engine over on it’s stand and remove the two arms of the exchanger from the tin.  There will be gaskets between the connections between the muffler to head and exchanger to head.

Once this is done, remove the nuts that hold the exchanger onto the head.  There will be rust, so use plenty of rust penetrator.  Once done, the exchangers should be freed from the engine.

Put all of this into a bag labeled “Exhaust”, minus the muffler and exchangers of course.

Now onto part four…

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OK, let’s take off the distributer.  I have two vacuum hoses on my distributere, go ahead and remove those.

Remove the sparkplug wires from the distributer.  Then remove the other end from the spark plugs.

The Distributer is held down in place by a nut screwed onto a stud, between the engine and the distributer.  Remove that nut and put it into a bag labeled ”Distributer”.  Your distributer might pull out hard, mine was moderate, this just depends on the quality of the seal.

Note the position of the tong on the distributor   It is off-set a little so it only goes into the slot one way.  There is also a spring inside the hole in the case, be sure that it is present.

Put that distributer into the “distributer bag” and move on the the next step.

Intake Manifold

Now let’s take off the intake manifold.  First off, we need to take the carburetor off.  Start by taking off the oil bath cleaner on the top, then remove the two bolts that hold the carb to the intake manifold.  Make sure to disconnect the fuel cutoff and automatic choke wires.  Also remove the vacuum hoses.

The carb is off, we can remove the intake manifold.  This has four connections with two manifolds allatch via rubber gaskets.  There are gaskets between all of these connections.  The four connections have two nuts each, which can easily break off.  I recommend a rust penetrating spray to remove these.

Here are the nuts, as you can see, mine broke off.

Now remove the rubber between the pieces.

With that remove, we can remove the maifolds on each side of the engine.  I do believe that the nuts are 13 mm.

Take all of those nuts and put them into a bag and label it “Intake Manifold”.  Here is mine completely removed.

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The shroud is the large black thing on the back of  the engine with a blue coil mounted to it.  The first thing we need to do is take the generator belt off.  To do this, there is a nut torqued to 43 ft-lb, which will turn the engine when attempting to remove.  You’ll need a large flat-head screwdriver to to insert into one of the two slots on the pully.  Be light with the wrench, or you can easily bend this pully with the screwdriver.

There, the generator pully nut is off.  Note the shims: try to keep them in the same order they came off the car.  Now let’s remove the generator strap from it’s pedestal.  There is a wide band that hold the generator onto the generator pedestal.  It’s pretty easy to remove, just undo the fastener and done.   Mine was a Phillips screw, but yours could be different.  Take the band off and put all of this, including the nuts and shims into a bag and label it “generator”.

Now, with the generator freed, we can locate the tin screws that hold the shroud, or in VeeDub “Dog House”, off the engine.  There is one located on each side of the engine and two in the rear.  Once those screws are out, put them into a bag labeled “Shroud”.  Take the shroud straight up as to not damage the oil cooler.

There we are done with this part.  Next we will take the rest of the “accessories” off the engine…

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Removing The Generator From The Fan Shroud

We will begin by removing the “plate” that the generator inserts into.  This plate is actually three parts, two dishs and one retainer ring.  It is held onto the shroud  by 10mm bolts, four of them.   The fan is next, where that nut is torqued down to 43 ft-lb, the same as the pully nut, so you’ll have a little fun with that.  There are usually more shims between the plate and the fan to give it proper clearance.  Keep these separate from the other shims and record which were where.  These are 10mm also, I believe.  once freed from the plate, the dishes and retainer ring all separate with it.  Once removed, there are two nuts on the inside of that plate that hold the generator in place.  Notice the there is a vent at the bottom of the plate, which is important for re-installation.  Keep and do not loose your Woodruff keys on each shaft. I do not seem to have pictures of this procedure, so we’ll move on.

Installing The Generator Into The Fan Shroud

As Bently would say, “the procedure is the reverse of removal”.  Let’s get into some more detail on how this all goes together.  I have my new generator there, but it is bare.  Go ahead and insert the Woodruff keys on either end of the generator.  You might need to force these to seat properly with a hammer, tapping lightly.

Assemble the plate unit together ensuring that the vent points down.  Screw on the two nuts and the plate should be all together.  Now insert the fan with the sims you pulled out from before. The clearance between the plate and the fan should be 2mm.  Not doing this will cause failure, which we do not want.  Again the fan nut should be torqued to 43 ft-lb.  Insert the pully on the other side, as to not loose the Woodruff key over there.  Put the whole plate back into the fan shroud, tightening the 10mm bolts to about 10 ft-lb.  Go ahead, spin the fan, ensure it spins freely and is not rubbing on anything.

…and the final assembly should look like this:

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